Standing over 20 feet in the air, the red, striped sandstone formations tower over the surrounding landscape, casting long shadows into the water they sit next to. Where can these majestic rock formations be found? It’s not Utah or New Mexico, but Kansas. That’s right – Kansas.
Known for its agriculture (cows outnumber people, after all) and its flat prairies, it might be surprising to learn there are areas of the state with large geological formations like those found in Utah, New Mexico and other areas of the American Southwest. Wilson Lake, located in central Kansas, is home to some of the most unique topography in the state.
“We have a lot of Dakota sandstone along with the greenhorn limestone that you see a lot of the houses and fence posts built out of,” said Eric Wickman, natural resource specialist at Wilson Lake. “The Dakota sandstone goes from here all the way out to Utah and down to New Mexico.”
A moderate hike through a picturesque prairie leads to the sandstone formations, aptly named Rocktown, which sit at the water’s edge of Wilson Lake. Even before reaching Rocktown, the surrounding flora and fauna make the hike a memorable one. The lake staff credit the resurgence of native grasses with a successful prescribe burn program.
“We run a very successful prescribe burn program here at Wilson [Lake], and that has knocked back a tremendous amount of the cedar trees,” said Wickman. “The fire has allowed the return back to our rich prairies and that's what we want … all that flora, the fauna too, the wildlife.”
While the native prairie is worth a visit on its own, reaching the large red sandstone formations at the water’s edge is the ultimate goal when hiking the Rocktown Trail. Although not visible, the sandstone formations continue below the water, too.
“When you think of Kansas, you think of flat, you think of agriculture and you think of a [smooth] bathtub when it comes to lakes,” said Nolan Fisher, natural resource manager at Wilson Lake. “I don't think there's any … underwater structure like there is here at Wilson [Lake]. There's just a tremendous amount of rock.”
The rock formations under the water make for excellent fishing, providing abundant holes and crevasses for fish to hide in. But the underwater rock can also pose a risk to swimmers.
“The topography of the landscape, it doesn't end at the water’s edge. It keeps on going down into the lake,” said Wickman. “People get kind of comfortable … and they can step off it. It surprises them. Literally, it's like walking off a ledge. Wear your life jackets when you’re wading around.”
The lake project staff take water safety very seriously not only because of the sudden drop-offs under the water, but because of the shear depth of the lake. Wilson Lake’s unique topography makes it the deepest in the state.
“It's got the deepest water in Kansas,” said Fisher. “We have some 85-foot-deep water out here, and most reservoirs are probably in the 30-to-40-foot range. We've got some deep water out here.”
Another characteristic of Wilson Lake is the wind. While some may find the wind in central Kansas to be a nuisance, it is the source of another unique feature at the lake – red sand beaches. Constant, strong winds lead to erosion of the Dakota sandstone in the area. When the sandstone erodes, it washes up on the shores of the lake creating beautiful, red beaches.
“With the sandstone and the breakdown of erosion over time, that sand washes up on the beach,” said Fisher. “We've got the benefit of having native sandy shores. From the late 1990s until now … with the strong south wind constantly blowing, it’s deposited sand on both ends of the dam. It's a really nice beach now, but we didn't haul any of that sand in.”
Strong winds also attract certain extreme athletes. According to Fisher, Wilson Lake is a hotspot for parasailers and kite boarders. But not everyone who visits the lake for extreme sports is interested in the water. The unique topography of the area makes for some of the best mountain biking trails in the region.
“The International Mountain Biking Association has a ranking system, and the highest-ranking [trails] are Epic,” said Fisher. “The state park mountain bike trail system is rated as Epic. The mountain biking community is a very specialized interest, and they'll travel across the country to ride an Epic trail.”
For those more suited to relaxing on a boat or a beach rather than testing their extreme sports skills, Wilson Lake boasts some of the best water when it comes to quality. According to Wickman, the native prairies act as natural filtration systems when it rains. Additionally, the lack of agriculture in the surrounding area due to the rocky terrain means there is less muddy runoff when it does rain.
“Our drainage upstream from us, it goes through a native prairie,” said Wickman. “Those rainstorms drain through a native prairie to keep our water clean – it's not all muddy or anything like that.”
Not only is the water clearer than most other reservoirs in Kansas, it also does not have the same blue green algae issues common at other lakes. Wilson Lake is part of the Saline River tributary, resulting in higher-than-average salt content. This has made it an excellent spot for striped bass fishing.
“When limestone breaks down, it’s high salt. So, what's the name of the river? It's the Saline River. It's historically named because of its high salt content,” said Fisher. “We hold the record striped bass here in the state of Kansas. They do very well in our waters here because of the high salt content.”
Still not convinced Wilson Lake is worth a visit? Perhaps the history of the area will sway the remaining skeptics. Ironically, this landlocked part of the world was once a sea. Now, the land surrounding Wilson Lake is rich in prehistoric fossils and artifacts.
“[This area] was an inland sea and you have the two different types of rock, the sandstone and then the limestone … that's entirely made up of decomposed sea life,” said Fisher. “You can see the clam shell fossils on the surface, we find the occasional shark’s tooth, and we've got rock hunters out here always looking in the limestone cuts, looking for sharks’ teeth, ammonites … that entire limestone layer is made up of decomposed sea life.”
More recent historic artifacts have been found in the area, too.
“We have a lot of cultural resources as well [from] Native Americans … who utilized this area,” said Matt Beckman, natural resource specialist at Wilson Lake. “[Wilson Lake has] always drawn people, whether it was before the lake or afterwards. It’s always been a really special place.”
Wide-open spaces and seemingly endless sky are not features necessarily unique to Kansas – much of the expansive lands west of the Missouri River also share these characteristics. However, Wilson Lake’s unique topography makes it a one-of-a-kind lake project in the Midwest. Just a short detour off Interstate 70, visiting Wilson Lake gives the feeling of stepping back in time, making it a must-see destination in Kansas.
“Over the eons … the erosion, the forces of nature … have carved the very steep ravines and gullies,” said Wickman. “The rivers, they basically cut through geologic time. They left these exposed areas that we can look at.”
For the project staff, having the opportunity to work at a place as unique as Wilson Lake is something they try not to take for granted.
“When you've been here for a while, you know, you forget where you work until somebody comments, ‘hey, this is a real special place,’” said Fisher. “It's inspiring and it's fun to work [here.]”